Fortunately for us these rules include both an Order of Battle and a Map for Edgehill (as well as OBs and maps for a number of other sizable ECW battles and one TYW battle).
Again, for us the nicest thing is that these rules far smaller units than we have been painting. Thus, each of our normal pike & shot units of six stands can easily be broken down into two three-stand units; and our six stand cavalry units into three two-stand units.
However we suspect that "For God King and Country" will not work as well for smaller actions . . . so for those we will simply re-combine our fractured units back into six-stand units and use a different set of rules.
But the real advantage right now is that I need to paint a lot fewer figures in order to have enough cavalry to play.
Jeff, while I have never played the rules within FGKaC, it is an excellent reference booklet.ReplyDelete
Looking forward to your play test of the rules.
This reminds me that my ECW collection has not seen the light of day for far too long...I need to brush them off and get them onto the gaming table. Perhaps, in 2015?
don't know the rules eithe, Jeff, but their FIW book is a great reference, campaign and interesting rule set.ReplyDelete
Posting Christmas Eve? Hope you were just taking a break from Santificating and such.
I'm back now after nearly a year of light involvement in my ECW project. Still working on selling off more stuff, especially 28mm Sci-fi. But with 10 infantry and 10 cavalry, I'll be done the entire initial order of 40mm stuff, and can get to some painting and some more ordering, I may add.
Hope you are having a healthy and happy 2015!
First I would like to thank everyone for their comments.ReplyDelete
Next please allow me to reassure those who said they might "steal" my technique . . . no need to steal, I am freely sharing it with anyone who wants to try it . . . and I suspect that it is far from original with me anyway.
Also I do NOT wish in any way imply any criticism to those who prefer a much more detailed painting of their horses. I enjoy viewing photos of such . . . but I do not have the time nor skill to do that so I use my quick and simple method.
Finally as to which inks I used. I am not suggesting that these would be the best; they are simply what I had on hand. I suspect that there are many inks that would work just as well or maybe even better.
I used a Games Workshop "Chestnut Ink" #61-69.
I used a Reaper Minatures "Woodshade Ink" #08206.
I used both of the above mixed 50/50 with water.
I also tried using a Winsor & Newton Ink "#954 Nut Brown" similarly diluted with water and was unhappy with it. I suspect that it would be better undiluted (but I did not try it that way).